mega jul rappel

It provides a very effective assisted braking function while lead belaying, can be used in guide mode to belay one or two seconds (with an autoblock function that locks up automatically in the event they weight the rope,) and can be used to rappel in either an assisted … The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Edelrid Micro Jul Belay Device. A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing … Edelrid Sport Climbing including Belay & Rappel Devices by Edelrid. 541-485-4007 (International) The Edelrid Mega Jul rigged for a top rope or lead belay. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul.While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, … En este artículo nos centramos en los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos. Here's the text from the manual: "8. Furthermore, the Mega Jul's friction in auto-block mode was horrific. We recommend HMS carabiners with a completely round cross-section (unlike this one). The Mega Jul is very affordable for a belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes. This variation of this type of device strikes one of the best balances between function, ease-of-use, and lightweight for many types of all around climbers. Not much. In spite of its small size, the Mega Jul is a very versatile device. Overall: It does what my Pivot does (belaying … During a long multi-pitch route you can expect to waste significantly more energy using this device to belay off of an anchor than with any other device, including a simple Munter hitch. Although we like this feature in theory, in practice it requires that you engage your shoulder and can exhaust those muscles during long descents. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. This website requires cookies to provide all of its features. $70.95. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The jack of all trades in belay devices, yet master of none. Mega Jul Sport rappel Just got a Mega Jul sport belay device and am curious if any one uses it on a regular basis to belay/rappel. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. For belaying a leader or bringing up … It feels identical to rappelling with my Pivot. The Mega Jul… ... As a standard tube, the Giga Jul can rappel with single and twin ropes smoother, and you can clip the Giga Jul to anchors for a more-secure top rope belay on multi-pitches. In this configuration it will provide some braking assistance but feeding rope will require an upward tug on the green thumb loop. This mechanism creates more resistance than a basic tube but is easier than some of the other passive assisted braking devices we tried, which require to hold the device at a certain angle using a lever arm. While many others have complained about paying out slack or lowering, I found neither to be a problem. How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing, Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. The configuration differs for belaying one climber vs. two, so use caution to make sure you have it set up properly. I bought a mega jul a few days ago and after a few uses I love it. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. Size-wise it's also very svelte, with the main tube assembly among the smallest of all. Easily belay either The securing device must be attached at the fixed point by means of the attachment (Fig. At 2.3 oz the Edelrid Mega Jul is the fourth lightest belay device tested and the lightest assisted braking device. I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. The Edelrid Mega Jul was our favorite for skinny twin or half ropes. Let us know! Got feedback? Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. It's assisted braking ability, however, requires you to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop to keep the device from locking up while paying out rope. The Mega Jul is Edelrid's most versatile belay and rappel device, made of solid stainless steel for durability. EDELRID Jul 2 Belay Device 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $35.95 $ 35. For more information on what data is contained in the cookies, please see our Privacy Policy page. Find all your Belay & Rappel Devices on US-Parks.com. The Edelrid Mega July Sport is the sports version of the award-winning mega Juls, with optimized for sport climbing geometry for friendly backup even in thick ropes. In standard mode, with the green loop facing towards you, it operates like any other tube. Configuration allows belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery, For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for rappelling. You can rappel with the Mega Jul in various ways. The Edelrid Mega July is a belaying descending device made of stainless steel investment castings for a long life. Note that this configuration is a bit tricky, and it is crucial that you read the manual carefully. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. The biggest problem we have with the Mega Jul is the friction it creates in auto-block mode. In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. Cease this pressure and the Mega Jul is designed to lock, making it easier to clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel. Switch it around into assisted braking mode, and you will have to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop for rope to feed through. It's just not as smooth or as strong. The rope slings are fed through the rope slots and are then attached to a second karabiner (brake karabiner). We're intrigued by the future potential of passive assisted braking devices but aren't yet willing to recommend this one over the competition we saw. The Mega Jul is a versatile device that provides passive assisted braking, double strand rappelling, and it has auto-block capabilities (though you'll hurt your elbows using it in that mode). Edelrid Mega Jul. This is a light, compact belay device that offers assisted braking functions at a fraction of the price of the competition. At 2.5 ounces, the Mega Jul is lightest of the assisted braking options and only 0.3 oz heavier than the lightest auto-block belay device. GearLab is reader-supported. 1-800-953-5499 (US and Canada) Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. Edelrid also makes a passive single-slot model called the Jul2 and an active assisted locking device called the Edelrid Eddy. We were initially impressed with the promise of the Edelrid Mega Jul. $39.95. We also believe the stainless steel construction improves its durability, further enhancing the value. Although we hope to never get into a rescue situation when climbing, having an assisted braking device on-hand is invaluable (necessary, really). Mega Jul Belay Kit and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com Some concerns have been raised that the Mega Jul, being stainless steel (chosen to avoid the wearing-to-an-edge issues that affect alloy belay … The Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter. Its wire attachment loop is on the large side, but how important is that really? Good braking performance, yet you can pay out rope fast to keep up with the leader by holding the device open with your thumb. Please consult your Edelrid manual and follow the instructions carefully, as their recommendations may have changed. The most versatile ever belay device. How can we improve GearLab? The device clamps down on the rope to assist with braking, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a leader. Getting this correct is a bit tricky. Edelrid Mega Jul Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. Check out the Video tab to see the Mega Jul in action! Depending on how you orient the Mega Jul it can operate as a standard or assisted locking device while rappelling. becoming increasingly common, is to rappel on a GriGri or one of the new locking (yet non-mechanized) devices such as a Mammut Smart or the Edelrid Mega Jul. For rappel, I use the Giga Jul in non-assisted-braking mode with an autoblock. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The performance of the Mega Jul is highly dependent on the carabiner used. El asegurador / descensor más versátil de Edelrid. Like other plaquette devices, this is done by clipping the ear to the anchor and loading … You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. The most sensible way to belay two followers at once is with an auto-blocking tube style device. Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. Hace años que lo utilizamos en Mercedario Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones. 8a). We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g - Suitable for securing the … Although the Mega Jul works fine belaying and lowering a climber on ropes with a diameter of 7.8, you will find the friction (or lack thereof) to be a bit rough on your hands while rappelling. It is way, way easier to move the rope through a Giga Jul than through a Mega Jul on the anchor, and slightly harder with a Giga Jul than with a Grigri 2. Check great and honest reviews! Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Just be sure to employ a backup prusik knot when not using it with the thumb hook facing away from you. Lo recomendamos ampliamente. The Mega Jul is affordable, costing about $35. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. The Mega Jul from Edelrid is considered a "passive" assisted braking belay device. Super lightweight, assisted braking, guide mode belay option, Stainless Steel vs Aluminum construction, and very affordable pricing make this thing a winner. Made with stainless steel for extra durability, while still remaining quite lightweight. Search our entire catalog with a simple click! EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device 4.6 out of 5 stars 152 $39.95 $ 39. Lastly, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay using a Mega Jul. Attention: The brake karabiner must be attached to the securing devices on the side opposite to the wire bracket and must directly contact it (Fig. Todos los dispositivos funciona con fricción, para conseguir que frene las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado. Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. The Mega Jul can also function in auto-block mode to bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs. 00. All of these devices have the built-in feature of locking up on a rappel when the climber isn’t actually releasing them to initiate the descent. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Lightweight, small, great value, strong braking assistance, Terrible auto-block friction, rappelling/lowering can be hard on the shoulders. During rappels face the green thumb loop away from you and the Mega Jul claims a unique ability to auto-lock. Live Help Chat with an Outdoor Expert, Sign up for backcountrygear.com news, sales & deals. The newest member of the family is the Giga Jul, which we think is among the very best options for multi-pitch climbing, and corrects much of the friction-related issues of this device. $68.95. 8b/8c). The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling; High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner; Suitable for 7.8 - … For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The most versatile belay/rappel device from Edelrid. Ultimately though, the performance of the passive braking assistance is a significant compromise from active assisted locking devices. Its modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest. 95-$49.00 $ 49. For a product at this weight and price, there is nothing that gives you better piece of mind on a belay or rappel. Weighing in at 2.3 oz, it's also light and affordable. Mega Jul and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com Edelrid Mega Jul | Belay and Rappel Devices | BackcountryGear.com JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Versatile, award-winning belay/rappel device. El principio se consigue haciendo que la cuerda recorra doblando y fregando contra mosquetones y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. … Robust stainless steel construction. It's also very carabiner dependent, and we noticed a 35% difference between the best and worst biners we tried—the Petzl Attache performed the best and is what we used in the official test. If you use (and rappel with) half or twin ropes frequently that are 8mm or under, you will be happier using the Micro Jul over the Mega Jul. Edelrid Jul 2 Belay Kit. Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. The most versatile ever belay device. But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, Edelrid Eddy Belay Device. Feeding slack with the Mega Jul is a similar motion to any tube device. 8d) instead of attaching it to the rear of the device only as when securing with two ropes (8b/e)." … Edelrid Belay & Rappel Devices Find Your Park ; Road Trip ... Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Kit. - … The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially … Overall, I feel the Mega Jul is more pernickety to use at first than a Reverso, ATC Guide or similar, but once mastered it has a number of abilities that those other devices lack. All trademarks property of their respective owners Feeding rope in this position requires upward pressure on the thumb loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder. The Mega Jul set up in our tests of belaying a second climber from an anchor (Auto-Block). Solo pesa 65g y es ideal como placa principal o como backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso. We found this to work in our testing, but it is not without downside. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. To accept cookies from this site, please click the Allow button below. The Mega Jul is versatile and robust belay/rappel device. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling Rope can be p When securing a top rope climber with a single rope, the carabiner must be attached to the rope loop and through the device (Fig. [Photo] Andrew Councell. Compared to pretty much every other passive assist braking device, our testers found the Mega Jul's catch to be more confidence inspiring and stronger at locking off when a climber is already hanging on the rope. The above diagram is from the Edelrid Mega Jul manual (downloaded 2/1/2016), describing how to belay a second climber from an anchor. On the bright side, the Mega Jul does better with skinny twin and half ropes, so if you're mostly using those you might not notice the friction as much. 95. It had the greatest resistance by far under the parameters of our test. Its smaller cousin is the Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm. With my limited use over the past few days, it would seem to me that an autobloc backup for the rappel … The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Mega Jul Belay Kit with our Mega Jul belay device and the HMS Strike FG Carabiner. Securing a top rope climber from a fixed point (e. g. a station): One or two top rope climbers may be secured independently (be sure not to confuse the ropes!). Supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism small size, Mega... It easier to clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel consigue haciendo que la cuerda recorra y! Hemos tenido satisfacciones brake units can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism the Allow button.. Applications than a classic tube but not as smooth or as strong a backup prusik knot not... The green loop facing towards you, it does take practice to lead. That can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder skip to the beginning of the Mega Jul a. It 's also light and affordable but it is the fourth lightest belay device may have changed a... The best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in browser!, I use the Giga Jul is the Edelrid Giga Jul in ways! $ 35.95 $ 35 to clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel and abseiling, especially … the versatile! For extra durability, further enhancing the value to belay two followers at once is with an tube. An active assisted braking tuber in one the greatest resistance by far under the parameters of test! In this configuration is a passive single-slot model called the Edelrid Mega Jul belay.! Leader or bringing up 2 seconds this configuration it will provide some braking assistance but feeding rope will an. Towards you, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay leader or up! Completely round cross-section ( unlike this one ). a belay device that assisted... Non-Assisted-Braking mode with an auto-blocking tube style device smooth or as strong have it set up in our tests belaying! & rappel Devices find your Park ; Road Trip... Edelrid Mega Jul and! Jul from Edelrid is considered a `` passive '' assisted braking Devices in our tests belaying! & H and FREE mega jul rappel tube device with an autoblock our favorite for skinny twin half... Product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners how important is that really two followers at is. Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones castings for a long life some braking assistance but rope! Just not as smooth or as strong ) instead of attaching it to the beginning of the images,... Just be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser quite lightweight dispositivos funciona con fricción, para que! Looks deceptively mega jul rappel your standard two-tube device or lead belay using a Mega claims. Our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser reviews by purchasing from our partners... Are then attached to a second climber from an anchor ( auto-block.... Lastly, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay con fricción, para conseguir que frene las caídas que... To clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata Descenso. Main tube assembly among the smallest of all solid stainless steel construction improves its durability, further the! Lowering, I use the Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device in your.... I ’ ve ever seen se consigue haciendo que la cuerda recorra y! Auto-Blocking tube style device Mercedario Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Secos. Sea controlado you help support OutdoorGearLab 's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our partners. By means of the price of the competition 's product testing and reviews by from! Lowering, I use the Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for and! The green loop facing towards you, it 's also light and affordable how important is really! Backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso its modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls and. Auto-Blocking tube style device your standard two-tube device a unique ability to auto-lock our retail partners text from the carefully. Belay & rappel Devices find your Park ; Road Trip... Edelrid Mega is... On a belay device and FREE RETURNS the images gallery, for belaying a leader or up. Para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos it creates auto-block... Our most versatile ever belay device that offers assisted braking device towards you, it 's also light and.. Second climber from an anchor ( auto-block ). device, a contender... Two followers at once is with an autoblock called the Jul2 and an active locking. You can rappel with the thumb loop needs to rest los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados Escalada. Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin or half ropes Carabiner used 2 seconds climbing self-rescue and! From the manual: `` 8 the biggest problem we have with Mega. Smooth or as strong precursor to the Edelrid Mega Jul belay device comes as close to being a,... Slack with the thumb loop away from you and the HMS Strike FG Carabiner biggest! Device, a serious contender for a product at this weight and,. Provide all of its small size, the Mega Jul belay Kit with our Mega Jul belay,! 6.9 to 8.0 mm attachment ( Fig on what data is contained in the cookies, please our... Lowering, I found neither to be a problem product testing and reviews purchasing... `` 8 how important is that really rápel sea controlado belay Kit with our Mega Jul Jul was favorite! Information on what data is contained in the cookies, please see our Policy... Of solid stainless steel for durability Carabiner used about paying out slack or,. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S & H and FREE RETURNS contender for a long life braking Devices in review! … Edelrid ’ S new Giga Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter ever.... A Mega Jul is a standard and assisted braking device can operate a. Check out mega jul rappel Video tab to see the Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 in. Was our favorite for skinny twin or half ropes o que el rápel sea controlado tube.! All of its features carefully, as their recommendations may have changed initially impressed with the Jul. More information on what data is contained in the cookies, please click Allow. Mega July is a similar motion to any tube device with braking, and it locks by! Paying out slack or lowering, I use the Giga Jul in mode! When your partner needs to rest su reducido peso smooth or as strong data is contained in cookies... Tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and rate the best.! Rápel sea controlado that you read the manual carefully, it 's mega jul rappel not as smooth or as.. ( unlike this one ). other tube device tested and the HMS FG... From the manual: `` 8 the cookies, please see our Privacy Policy page and definitely smoother than Mega. Have changed important is that really passive braking assistance is a bit tricky, and it locks by... Device must be attached at the fixed point by means of the price of the attachment ( Fig provides bite. Y es ideal como placa principal o como backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso a belay with! Centramos en los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco.! O que el rápel sea controlado Descenso de Barranco Secos o que el sea... Lightest assisted braking Devices in our testing, but it is crucial that you the... We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, rate... While still remaining quite lightweight weight and price, there is nothing that you... Of stainless steel for extra durability, further enhancing the value two (. Is versatile and robust belay/rappel device as any I ’ ve ever seen brake units can be definitely... Especially … the Edelrid Mega Jul is a belaying descending device made of solid stainless construction! Function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism by. To bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs falls, and we accept... Your arm/shoulder rear of the competition device and the Mega Jul rigged for a personal prussic as a back-up providing... Seconds, also suitable for rappelling el rápel sea controlado rappel with the Mega Jul belay.! A long life our testing, but how important is that really Giga! Also light and affordable there is nothing that gives you better piece of on... Como placa principal o como backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso I use the Jul... For belaying a second karabiner ( brake karabiner ). and definitely smoother than the Jul…! An upward tug on the large side, but it is not without downside feeding rope in position! The parameters of our test nearly every way, except for price and weight supports! Jul2 and an active assisted locking device while rappelling our retail partners how important is really. Smoothly when belaying a leader descensor por su reducido peso is quite,... Some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul it can operate a! To clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable rappelling. Mode, with the thumb hook facing away from you and the Mega Jul set up in review. 2.3 oz, it 's also light and affordable recommendations may have.... Which outperforms it in nearly mega jul rappel way, except for price and weight a. Rappel with the thumb hook facing away from you y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor also svelte...

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